Tocllaraju

Tocllaraju
Highest point
Elevation 6,034 m (19,797 ft)
Coordinates 9°20′50″S 77°23′49″W / 9.34722°S 77.39694°W / -9.34722; -77.39694Coordinates: 9°20′50″S 77°23′49″W / 9.34722°S 77.39694°W / -9.34722; -77.39694
Geography
Tocllaraju

Peru

Location Ancash, Peru
Parent range Andes, Cordillera Blanca
Climbing
First ascent 31 July 1939 by W. Brecht and H. Schweizer[1]
Easiest route Northwest ridge

Tocllaraju[2][3] (possibly from Quechua tuqlla trap,[4] rahu snow, ice, mountain with snow,[5] "snow-covered trap mountain") is a mountain in the Cordillera Blanca in the Andes of Peru, about 6,034 m (19,797 ft) high.[3][2] It is situated in the Ancash Region, Carhuaz Province, Aco District, and in the Huaraz Province, Tarica District. Tocllaraju lies north-west of the mountains Pukaranra and Palcaraju.[2]

Climbing

The easiest routes to the summit of this mountain are the northeast and the north ridges. The northeast ridge is rated PD+/AD- and it was the route followed when the mountain was summited the first time by W. Brecht and H. Schweizer on 31 July 1939. The north ridge route is also rated PD+/AD- and depending on the condition of the bergschrund is the easiest alternative to the normal route.

An harder alternative is the west face, rated D. The route develops mainly on a 55° ice slope with a section of 150 m (500 ft) and consists of 10 pitches. The descend is usually done by the northwest ridge.

References

  1. andeshandbook.org
  2. 1 2 3 Alpenvereinskarte 0/3b. Cordillera Blanca Süd (Peru). 1:100 000. Oesterreichischer Alpenverein. 2005. ISBN 3-937530-05-3.
  3. 1 2 Biggar, John (2005). The Andes: A Guide for Climbers. Andes. p. 81. ISBN 9780953608720.
  4. Teofilo Laime Ajacopa, Diccionario Bilingüe Iskay simipi yuyayk'ancha, La Paz, 2007 (Quechua-Spanish dictionary)
  5. babylon.com
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