Phyllis Dalton

Phyllis Dalton
Born	Phyllis Margaret Dalton 1925 (age 90–91) London, England, UK
Occupation	Costume designer
Years active	1946-present

Phyllis Dalton, MBE, (born 1925) is a British costume designer known for her work on Lawrence of Arabia, Dr. Zhivago, Oliver!, The Princess Bride, Henry V and Much Ado About Nothing. She has received two Academy Awards, a BAFTA and an Emmy for her designs.

Career

Phyllis Margaret Dalton was born on 16 October 1925 in London, England. As a teenager she studied at the Ealing School of Art. After the outbreak of World War II she began training as a Wren at the code-breaking facility Bletchley Park which she said she found to be "unbelievably boring".^[1] In 1946, after being "demobbed" her grandmother entered her into a competition at Vogue Magazine where she won the opportunity to work as an assistant in the wardrobe department at Gainsborough Studios in Islington.^[2] Once there, she began cutting her teeth on films like Brian Desmond Hurst's A Christmas Carol; Alfred Hitchcock's The Man Who Knew Too Much and on Anatole Litvak's Anastasia.

By 1957 Dalton branched out on her own as a designer, making a name for herself on films like Island in the Sun directed by Robert Rossen (1957), with James Mason and Joan Fontaine; and Our Man in Havana (1959) directed by Carol Reed, starring Sir Alec Guinness and Noël Coward.

But perhaps her most memorable work may well be from her collaboration with Sir David Lean on two of his most critically acclaimed films: Lawrence of Arabia in 1962, starring Peter O'Toole and Omar Sharif; and again three years later on Dr. Zhivago starring Sharif and Julie Christie, for which she won her first Academy Award. For this particular film, Dalton and her team ended up making 3,000 individual costumes and putting together 35,000 individual items of clothing for the extras. The characters of Zhivago (Sharif) and Lara (Christie) each had approximately 90 costume combinations, and the other six other principal characters had an average of fifteen costume changes each. Because this was before CGI, by the time principal photography ended it was estimated the costume dept. had used up a total of 984 yards of fabric, 300,000 yards of thread, 1 million buttons and 7,000 safety pins.^[3]

Peter O'Toole in one of Dalton's more famous costumes for Lawrence: the sheikh's white robes and keffiyeh given to him by Sherif Ali. Lawrence of Arabia (1962)

Julie Christie in one of Dalton's award winning designs for Dr. Zhivago (1965)

Dalton's costumes for Montoya, Buttercup and Westley for The Princess Bride (1987) on display at the EMP Museum, Seattle

In all, Dalton has designed costumes for more than forty films. Other notable ones include Lord Jim (1965) again with O'Toole and directed by Richard Brooks, Oliver! (1968) with Ron Moody and Oliver Reed directed by Carol Reed; and The Princess Bride (1987) directed by Rob Reiner with Cary Elwes and Robin Wright. A few of the other stars who have worn her creations include Dame Elizabeth Taylor, Kim Novak, Dame Maggie Smith, Emma Thompson, Robin Williams, Keanu Reeves, Denzel Washington and Michael Palin.

Personal honors

In 2002, Dalton was awarded the MBE (Member of the Order of the British Empire) at The Queen's Birthday Honours for her services to the Film Industry as a Costume Designer.^[4]

Award history

Oscar nominations & wins

In the category of Best Costumes.

39th Academy Awards-Won for Dr. Zhivago
41st Academy Awards-Nominated for Oliver!. Lost to Romeo and Juliet.
62nd Academy Awards-Won for Henry V.

Emmy wins

In the category of Outstanding Costume Design for a Limited Series or a Special.

35th Primetime Emmy Awards-Won for The Scarlet Pimpernel.

BAFTA nominations & wins

in the category of Best Costume Design.

42nd British Academy Film Awards-Nominated for Oliver!. Lost to Romeo and Juliet.
27th British Academy Film Awards-Won for The Hireling (1973).
43rd British Academy Film Awards-Nominated for Henry V. Lost to The Adventures of Baron Munchausen.
47th British Academy Film Awards-Nominated for Much Ado About Nothing. Lost to The Piano.

Saturn wins

In the category of Best Costumes.

15th Saturn Awards-Won for The Princess Bride

References

↑ Brownlow, Kevin; David Lean: A Biography; St. Martins Press; 1st edition (September 1997)
↑ http://issuu.com/bafta/docs/phyllisdaltonbrochure?e=2564789/1799916
↑ http://www.niwdenapolis.com/2012/10/film-inspiration-doctor-zhivago-by.html
↑ http://issuu.com/bafta/docs/phyllisdaltonbrochure?e=2564789/1799916

External links

Academy Award for Best Costume Design

1948–1956	1948 (Black & white): Roger K. Furse / (Color): Dorothy Jeakins and Barbara Karinska 1949 (bw): Edith Head and Gile Steele / (c): Marjorie Best, Leah Rhodes and William Travilla 1950 (bw): Edith Head, Charles LeMaire / (c): Edith Head, Dorothy Jeakins, Elois Jenssen, Gile Steele, Gwen Wakeling 1951 (bw): Edith Head /(c): Orry-Kelly, Walter Plunkett, Irene Sharaff 1952 (bw): Helen Rose / (c): Marcel Vertès 1953 (bw): Edith Head / (c): Charles LeMaire, Emile Santiago 1954 (bw): Edith Head / (c): Sanzo Wada 1955 (bw): Helen Rose / (c): Charles LeMaire 1956 (bw): Jean Louis / (c): Irene Sharaff

1957–1958	1957: Orry-Kelly 1958: Cecil Beaton

1959–1960	1959 (bw): Orry-Kelly / (c): Elizabeth Haffenden 1960 (bw): Edith Head and Edward Stevenson / (c): Bill Thomas and Arlington Valles

1961–1966	1961 (bw): Piero Gherardi / (c): Irene Sharaff 1962 (bw): Norma Koch / (c): Mary Wills 1963 (bw): Piero Gherardi / (c): Renié, Vittorio Nino Novarese and Irene Sharaff 1964 (bw): Dorothy Jeakins / (c): Cecil Beaton 1965 (bw): Julie Harris / (c): Phyllis Dalton 1966 (bw): Irene Sharaff / (c): Joan Bridge and Elizabeth Haffenden

1967–1980	1967: John Truscott 1968: Danilo Donati 1969: Margaret Furse 1970: Vittorio Nino Novarese 1971: Yvonne Blake and Antonio Castillo 1972: Anthony Powell 1973: Edith Head 1974: Theoni V. Aldredge 1975: Milena Canonero and Ulla-Britt Söderlund 1976: Danilo Donati 1977: John Mollo 1978: Anthony Powell 1979: Albert Wolsky 1980: Anthony Powell

1981–2000	1981: Milena Canonero 1982: Bhanu Athaiya and John Mollo 1983: Marik Vos-Lundh 1984: Theodor Pištěk 1985: Emi Wada 1986: Jenny Beavan and John Bright 1987: James Acheson 1988: James Acheson 1989: Phyllis Dalton 1990: Franca Squarciapino 1991: Albert Wolsky 1992: Eiko Ishioka 1993: Gabriella Pescucci 1994: Tim Chappel and Lizzy Gardiner 1995: James Acheson 1996: Ann Roth 1997: Deborah Lynn Scott 1998: Sandy Powell 1999: Lindy Hemming 2000: Janty Yates

2001–present	2001: Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie 2002: Colleen Atwood 2003: Ngila Dickson and Richard Taylor 2004: Sandy Powell 2005: Colleen Atwood 2006: Milena Canonero 2007: Alexandra Byrne 2008: Michael O'Connor 2009: Sandy Powell 2010: Colleen Atwood 2011: Mark Bridges 2012: Jacqueline Durran 2013: Catherine Martin 2014: Milena Canonero 2015: Jenny Beavan

Black & White / Color separate (1948–1956, 1959–1966)

Saturn Award for Best Costume

Bill Thomas (1976) John Mollo (1977) Theoni V. Aldredge (1978) Jean-Pierre Dorleac (1979) Jean-Pierre Dorleac (1980) Bob Ringwood (1981) Elois Jenssen and Rosanna Norton (1982) Aggie Guerard Rodgers and Nilo Rodis-Jamero (1983) Bob Ringwood (1984) Nanà Cecchi (1985) Robert Fletcher (1986) Phyllis Dalton (1987) Barbara Lane (1988) Erica Edell Phillips (1989/90) Marilyn Vance (1991) Eiko Ishioka (1992) Mary E. Vogt (1993) Sandy Powell (1994) Julie Weiss (1995) Deborah Everton (1996) Ellen Mirojnick (1997) Jenny Beavan (1998) Trisha Biggar (1999) Louise Mingenbach (2000) Judianna Makovsky (2001) Ngila Dickson and Richard Taylor / Trisha Biggar (2002) Penny Rose (2003) Kevin Conran (2004) Isis Mussenden (2005) Yee Chung-Man (2006) Colleen Atwood (2007) Mary Zophres (2008) Michael Wilkinson (2009) Colleen Atwood (2010) Alexandra Byrne (2011) Paco Delgado (2012) Trish Summerville (2013) Ngila Dickson (2014) Alexandra Byrne (2015)

Note: The years are listed as per convention, usually the year of film release; the ceremonies are usually held the next year.

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